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| DECEMBER 2004 |
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Not far from Coorg, a bumpy
ride on a typically pot-holed Indian road brings you to
the Tibetan settlement of Bylakuppe. Bylakuppe actually
consists of two Tibetan settlements, the original (and
larger of the two) of Lugsung Samdupling and another smaller
one called Dickey Larsoe, nearby. From your new Club Mahindra
resort in Coorg, Bylakuppe is only some 30 km away, in
the Periyapatna district of Karnataka (80 km from Mysore
city).
Though prayer flags flutter in the breeze and maroon-robed
monks seem to be everywhere, don’t expect to come
to a place caught up in a time warp. For every robed monk
you see, you will also see a youth in blue jeans, and
hear the strains of rock or country music playing in the
distance. Bylakuppe is a bustling modernising Indian town,
but with a difference. It’s population is almost
entirely of Tibetan origin, though now, over two generations
of Tibetans have been born and raised here in India—in
exile, in their home away from home. And it is here, in
this settlement, that you can get glimpse of some very
interesting aspects of Tibetan religious traditions and
culture.
 If
you are truly interested in Tibetan life and culture arrange
an early morning (5am) visit to the Sera JeMonastery.
This is Bylakuppe’s largest monastery with over 2000
resident monks. It was built to replace the original Sera
(Wild Rose Fence) monastery of Tibet that was once the
seat of learning of Tibetan Buddhism. If you arrive early
you can be part of the morning shapten (puja).
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In 1996 this monastery became the subject
of much media hype when it came to media attention that
an incarnate lama (the 10-year-old Spanish boy, Tenzin
Osel Hita Torres) lived there. However, for the Tibetans
he is only one of many incarnate lamas, who serve a spiritua
lmission. The dormitories of this monastery are home to
hundreds of young monks from all over India, Nepal and
the world.
After that early morning visit, stop to sip on Tibetan
tea and maybe, some hot Tibetan bread with jam. But brace
yourself; this tea isn’t anything close to the chai
drunk in the rest of India. Tibetan po cha is butter tea
that is salty and slightly bitter and probably a cultivated
taste.
One of the most enduring memories of Bylakuppe for many
visitors is surely the sight of child monks (little lamas)
roaming the place, giggling and laughing and playing pranks,
the way children everywhere do. Watching them in their
brilliant robes either at play, |
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deep in prayer
or chanting reverently, is an impression that will stay
with you. However, not all of Tibetan life and society
is about tradition and religion, the bulk of Tibetans
live normal mainstream lives and either farm, work jobs
or go to modern schools and colleges.
Another aspect of Tibetan culture that you must experience
is the tradition of debating. For that you will have to
stay back until at least five in the evening and plan
a 7pm departure. Witness a temple courtyard filled with
monks debating in the distinctive Tibetan style. One person
will stand and hurl philosophical challenges (with dramatic
hand claps) and the others will respond instantly by referring
to one of many thousands of sacred texts. Under the gaze
of hundreds of observers and the presence of many senior
monks, the debate rages, with all enjoying the verbal
skill and wit of the contestants.
You could also make a trip to the Tibetan nunnery where
clean-shaven Tibetan nuns with their heads wrapped in
maroon robes live. Try to plan your visit to coincide
with the shapten time at the nunnery temple. |
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While in Bylakuppe you may also want to try some Tibetan food.
If the Tibetan tea was a bit difficult on your taste buds early
in morning, you can still enjoy a meal of momos (steamed meat-stuffed
dumplings) and thuk-pa (noodle soup made of a meaty broth).
But if that’s not quite what you had in mind for dinner,
there is other food available too. Then, pick up a few knickknacks
at one of the stalls or shops that sell all kinds of colourful
baubles as well as Tibetan-themed T-shirts and shirts.
No serious visit to Bylakuppe is complete without a trip to
the
Namdroling Monastery. This is the monastery of Penor Rinpoche
and is today the largest Nyingmapa (Tibetan Buddhism) teaching
centre in the world. A visit to the Namdroling Monastery (or
any monastery) should be arranged in advance (Tel: (91)8223-694-318
and make arrangements with a staff member). At this monastery
you will find a sea of Buddhist monks studying the sutras and
tantras in great depth in a course that lasts nine years. Graduates
who are exceptional become Khenpos who are then are then sent
to teach in different monasteries and centres around India.
At the Namdroling monastery you will find the beautiful Golden
Temple. Enter the expansive hall and what strikes you immediately
is the three magnificent golden images of Sakyamuni Buddha,
Padmasambhava and Avalokitesvara. They have been placed in the
temple in such a way that the images face Tibet. They are about
40 feet tall and are made of gilded bronze. The rest of
the temple is colourfully and ornately decorated and there are
myriad pictures of Buddha, in his different forms and incarnations.
Take some time to wander around the temple and examine it’s
distinctive art. If you are lucky you may witness a group of
monks chanting in the hall or a shapten in progress.
If your visit Bylakuppe happens to come around the Tibetan New
Year (February) you will witness some of the festivities of
the season. A new addition to existing Tibetan festivities was
added during February 2004, when Bylakuppe became the venue
of the newly created Tibetan Music Festival. This festival brought
together Tibetan artistes and singers from around the world,
with the philosophy that music is not just about entertainment,
but it can also promote deeper values such as love, peace and
compassion, some of the basic tenets of Buddhism.
Tibetan musicians from as far away as Switzerland and the US
participated as did the favourite of many, the Bangalore-based
Khawae Shunu band. So if you are a music fan do check in to
see who may be playing at Bylakuppe. However don’t expect
purely traditional sounds, though you can find that too. The
music you are most likely to hear though is hip and modern and
mostly rock.
All too soon your day excursion to Bylakuppe will be over and
it will be time to return to the resort in Coorg. But whatever
the duration of your visit here, you are sure to be taken-in
by the uniqueness of Tibetan culture and the spirituality of
the Tibetans’ home away from home. |
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