Blue skies, azure seas, deep backwaters, dense vegetation, gracefully swaying palms in a perennial dance routine, echoed in the sinuous movements of the mystical kathakali and mohini attam; a land peppered by ancient Hindu temples, old churches and mosques, and a hospitality industry in permanent top gear – this has to be Kerala. A land that has captured travellers’ fancies the world over; ‘God’s own country’ today probably has more space for the moneyed tourist, than the resident God.

Cruise in control

Located in Kollam district, the Ashtamudi Lake (or Ashtamudi Kayal) and the network of backwaters are famous for its magnificent panoramic views. Slumbering on its banks, the town of Kollam was once a bustling port – a hub of the international spice trade. The eight-hour trip from Kollam to Alappuzha (Allepey) is the longest backwater cruise that can be had in Kerala.

A ride on the small wooden boat called kettu vellam along the shady backwaters, is the perfect way to relax on a holiday. There is nothing better than spending your days lazing in the sun, or taking long relaxing cruises while daily life unfolds all around you. All along the Alumkadavu-Sasthamkotta region, one can see little homes; complete with their own productive little gardens of Eden, perched on the banks of the waterways. Each home has separate steps to alight into the water, with at least one canoe moored, ready to serve as transport for the family. Even the humblest home is self-contained in food—bananas, yams, tapioca, jackfruits and even mango trees can be found in these small yards. And who can forget the fish! The backwaters and the lake are perennial sources of fish, satisfying the never-ending demand for the staple. The waterways also serve as a medium for commerce. Long low wooden boats carry thatch, coconuts, and even dredged mud for daubing the homes. Sunburnt men clad in mundus (loin cloth) toil cheerfully on the boats, adding to the idyll. Life is good, and near content here.

Making history

Kollam town has an opulent past. Known as Desinganadu in ancient times, this sea port had a sustained commercial reputation since the days of the Phoenicians and Romans. Later, there was even a flourishing Chinese settlement here. The Portuguese came here in 1502, and set up trade. Soon, the Dutch and the British followed. Kollam was one of the early centres of Christian activity in Kerala, the many fabulous churches – old and new are testimonials to that.

The villages and small towns around Kollam are famous for many temples like the Nagaraja (Serpent king) Temple in Mannassala (32 km), which finds mention in the Mahabharata. The Sastha temple of Achencoil is another important pilgrim centre. The Pushpabhishekam (offering of flowers), where stupendous amounts of flowers are offered to the deity during the Revathi festival, is a treat to the sight. It is no surprise then, that Kollam has earned the title of ‘God’s own capital’.

Stuff of legends

The beautiful Thevally Palace near the Ashtamudi Lake is now in the use of the Public Works Department. Legend has it that a British resident who lived across the lake fell in love with a lady in the Palace. His faithful dog used to swim across the lake to deliver love letters to his master’s sweetheart. One day the dog was found dead in the grounds of the palace - either due to exhaustion or killed by a guard in the palace. A monument was erected in its memory, which is now in ruins – all that is left is a crumbling pedestal.

The Devi temple at Thevalakkara has another interesting legend associated with it. It is said that the Portuguese once tried to plunder this temple, and failed. When they tried to make good their escape, their ship would not move. Realising their mistake, they apologised for their offence and even carved out their apology on a black stone tablet, which is kept in the temple till this day.

This land seems to have it all—an attractive beach, shady inland waterways, the vast ecological treasure of the Ashtamudi Lake and of course, the ubiquitous Karimeen (Pearl Spot fish). Witnessing a fisherman catch the Karimeen is a tourist attraction in itself—he would feel around underwater with his feet by day, or use a torch and net by night to find the fish! Once caught, you can get the fish cooked right there on the boat and indulge in it and the other typical local dishes, in the moonlight. While stargazing on a boat after a day of experiencing the ethereal beauty of these backwaters, you are bound to come to the conclusion that paradise surely exists in the back of beyond.

FACT FILE

Getting there By Air: The nearest airport is at Thiruvananthapuram (71 km away). By Rail: Kollam is an important railhead that is well connected to many cities in south India. By Road: An excellent road network links Kollam to all major towns and cities in South India. Accommodation:

Club Mahindra’s latest addition to its bouquet of world-class resorts - the Backwater Retreat in Ashtamudi - is the best place to stay.