The beautiful heart-shaped faces of the exotic ladies at the immigration counters of Kuala Lumpur’s swish international airport were framed by demure head scarves. We found ladies manning the toll gates of the smooth-as-silk highways, serving at McDonald’s and Kentucky Fried Chicken outlets, at the reception of swanky hotels and the country’s many theme parks.

TOP: The Selangor theme park; ABOVE: Mounted royal guards at the National Palace.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The Petronas towers; Shop in style; KL’s Rapid Transport System.

In the midst of modern KL there is a peaceful historic core. Places like The Padang, an ancient parade ground that serves as a cricket field, for instance, and historic colonial edifices like the Victorian-Moorish High Court and Supreme Court buildings with golden domes, the National Mosque that’s a synthesis of modern and traditional lines, Arabic arches and slim missile-like minarets, seem part of Andrew Lang’s Arabian Nights. There is also the vintage St Mary’s Cathedral, the Malayan Railway Administration Station and the Kuala Lumpur Railway Station which are fusions of Victorian and Moorish architecture.

Its perky pulse was palpable as we strolled into vibrant nightspots like Bangsar, sipped coffee at happening sidewalk cafés on Bintang Walk, and after dinner at an Indian restaurant, decided to plunge into the colourful chaos and consumerism of the night market in Chinatown. There was a virtual stampede for bargains—everything from faux Rolex and designer watches, to elegant and practical footwear, T-shirts, and DVDs was up for grabs. The atmosphere was electric and despite the late hour, we felt utterly safe.

While KL offers a smorgasbord of urban pleasures, it has a soft natural side to it too. The sprawling scenic Lake Gardens area is home to the Hibiscus and Orchid Gardens as well as the butterfly, deer and bird parks. We gave the child in us free rein at Sunway Lagoon, Malaysia’s premier theme park in the neighbouring state of Selangor.

Later that day after browsing through a few of KL’s many modern malls we headed for an evening of fine dining in one of the many stylish eateries that dot the city. Indeed KL is a melting pot of cuisines, and restaurant-hopping turned out to be a joy here. There are sumptuous spreads in swish restaurants, food courts brimming
with local and international fare and the humble hawker stalls that serve homespun food in hygienic conditions.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Baba Nonya cusine; KL is a shopper’s paradise; The KL Tower. FACING PAGE: Old style Malaysian homes sit in the shadow of the Petronas Towers.

With spacious and well-appointed rooms, modern kitchenettes, air-conditioning, housekeeping and launderette services, swimming pools, poolside landscaping, children’s play area, wireless internet access, a white tiger garden and many more features, Heritage Suites makes for the perfect place to make a pitstop while you take in the magnificence that is Kuala Lumpur.